A presidential favorite, chicken pipián is a must-try Ilocano dish with Aztec roots

The earthy notes of the rare epazote herb in Vigan’s signature chicken stew was famously served at the historic Syquia Mansion.

At first glance, you might mistake it for kare-kare, but one whiff of its earthy, minty aroma tells a completely different story.

Meet chicken pipián, the “under-the-radar” dish of Vigan and the favorite comfort dish of the sixth Philippine President, Elpidio Quirino—a man who, despite his global travels, remained a “Genuine Ilocano” at heart, often requesting this specific stew at the Syquia Mansion.

Chicken pipián is a porridge-type chicken stew made with a base of native Ilocano chicken, ground annatto seeds (achuete) that give it an appealing orange hue, ground toasted rice for its thick and heavy sauce, and kamias (or tamarind) for its signature sour tang.

But the main ingredient that defines the dish is epazote, a Mexican herb that grows widely in Ilocos. The leaves are added once the stew is almost done, giving the dish its distinct medicinal and mint-like scent.

From Aztec roots to Ilocano soul

While the Mexican pipián is typically a thick sauce made of ground pumpkin seeds (pepitas), Vigan’s version was indigenized by local cooks over 450 years ago during the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade. They swapped pumpkin seeds for toasted ground rice and introduced local souring agents, creating a dish that exists nowhere else in the Philippines. It’s a rare culinary bridge between ancient Aztec traditions and Ilocano ingenuity.

Once a colonial import, chicken pipián is now a staple of Ilocos Sur, often served during “atang” rituals (offerings), community gatherings, wakes, heritage celebrations, and historical commemorations, particularly of former President Quirino.

Recognized as a home-cooked heritage dish, chicken pipián can often be found in local carinderias, public markets, and town centers, especially around Vigan. Kusina Felicitas, located within Grandpa’s Inn, is one of the many go-to spots where you can taste the Ilocano classic as you stroll Vigan’s historic streets.

Since epazote herbs are prevalent only to Ilocos Sur, finding chicken pipián in Metro Manila can be challenging. Fortunately, Victorino’s Restaurant in Quezon City serves chicken pipián together with a number of Ilocano heritage dishes.