Sulu’s tiyula itum impressed Michelin inspectors despite its unappealing color

The smoky depths of the Tausug’s royal black stew had its journey from the Sultan’s banquets to the Michelin Bib Gourmand tables of Metro Manila.

If you haven’t tried Tiyula Itum of the Tausug, a staple of Sulu cuisine, you haven’t experienced the full spectrum of Filipino flavor. It’s jet-black, smoky, and carries an aura of mystery that stops every foodie, even Michelin inspectors.

Tiyula Itum (literally “Black Stew” in the Tausug language) is historically revered as a “Royal Dish.” It’s essentially a beef or goat stew with a signature jet-black broth from the pamapa, the dish’s soul, and a natural preservative. It’s charred coconut meat pounded into a fine paste, mixed with a blend of ginger, turmeric, garlic, and the sharp, peppery kick of lengkuas or galangal.

The alchemy of pamapa

When marinated into the meat and slow-simmered, the result is a broth surprisingly silky and deep. Each spoonful offers a smoky aroma and a spicy, herbaceous warmth that lingers, providing an eating experience far more sophisticated than your average beef stew.

For centuries, tiyula itum has been reserved for the Sultan of Sulu and served only to nobility during grand celebrations. Today, it remains a powerful symbol of Sulu’s cultural heritage and identity, prepared for wedding feasts (pagtiyaun) and religious celebrations like Hari Raya. Locals also serve tiyula itum to special guests as a gesture of hospitality.

To taste tiyula itum in its most traditional form, a pilgrimage to the Sulu archipelago (Dennis Coffee Garden, Jolo) or Zamboanga (Bay Tal Mal Restaurant, Zamboanga City) is a must.

In Metro Manila, you can go to Cabel (San Miguel, Manila), a beautiful spot near Malacañang that honors Tausug and Maguindanaon recipes with impeccable detail; or Palm Grill (Tomas Morato, Quezon City), known as the gateway to Southern Mindanaoan cuisine. Both are owned by Miguel “Miggy” Cabel Moreno, a renowned chef and culinary advocate for Mindanaoan cuisine. Both earned Michelin Bib Gourmand distinctions last October.

Have a taste of Sulu’s royal heritage and culture in a bowl of tiyula itum, intriguing and delicious as it is spellbinding and magical.