MNL Fashion Week: Viktor dresses up a dystopian world

Dark hues. Denim. Leather. Welcome to the post-apocalypse

It might be what people need for the cold, dark future ahead.

By the time the doors open at Manila Fashion Week, there’s already a substantial queue. The stylish set has come out in force tonight. Because for the next few days, designers are showcasing the new styles that will—in their minds—define fashion over the coming months. 

And as the lights go on for the Viktor show, we get a taste of what the future looks like. 

Designer-entrepreneur Ino Caluza and co-designer Will Mueco lean hard on their vision of a dystopian, post-apocalyptic world. Like Mad Max meets Blade Runner—without the dust and grime, but with more than a little skin on display.  

The first models take to the runway, setting the tone for the rest of the evening. Decked in denim and leather, they move across the sparsely decorated runway, framed by hard light and deep shadows.

The material of the future?

These materials are expected, of course, but the twist comes in what the fabric is actually made of. You couldn’t tell the difference from a glance, but some of the denim isn’t really denim. At least, not in the traditional sense. The brand made use of a pineapple fabric blend created by the Department of Science and Technology — Philippine Textile Research Institute, a sustainable material that’s been making its way into the fashion world.

You’ll see wide, structured shoulders on the jackets, some extending well beyond the models’ frames. Sharp angles and strong lines make up the details, with some safari-inspired pieces sporting bellows pockets to bring home the point. 

But there are softer silhouettes, too. Relaxed jackets, oversized shirts, and even a massive, ballooning skirt that appears in the finale. And these do well to offset the more solid shapes of the rest of the outerwear.

Underneath the leather and denim

Just when the audience thinks the show is over, another slew of models appears. This time, donning the new undergarment line from the brand. Cut in varying lengths, they come in neutral colors, and most are trimmed with white or black elastic. They also carry on the theme of the main collection—lines, angles, structures, and all—all executed with clean-looking shapes.  

All told, the new collection is bold, with lots of volume. Everything has a grand, deliberate scale to it, paired with utilitarian sensibilities. And while Viktor paints in bleak tones, the collection might just be what people need for the cold, dark future ahead.

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